[ Travel ] Backpacking IndoChina Day 7-8: Sa Pa, Vietnam + surviving the scam in Lao Cai

We boarded Lao Airlines in the late afternoon of March 7. 2014.  I was a bit wary since we did not call ahead of time to confirm our booking and I’ve read somewhere that some people gets bumped off the passenger list at the last minute. We booked our tickets online months ago. Fortunately, no such thing happened and we departed right on time.

It was dark and drizzling when we arrived in Noi Bai International Airport. It was exactly as I left it around this time last year too, cold and rainy. We have a train to catch so we lost no time in getting some local currencies and tried to see if we can book a ticket at the Tourist Assistance Desk at the airport but it was clearly marked up by a couple hundred VND. We raced outside into the night and got into one of the trusty Mai Linh Taxi. We were getting worried since it was already past 7 and we’re not exactly sure what time the ticketing office closes. We didn’t know which station the trains bound for Lao Cai departs from so we blurted either Tran Quy Cap station or Gia Lam station. He made a quick phone call. It turned out its the latter.

As we were speeding on our way, we came across three vehicular accidents and my friend was horrified. I calmly justified it by saying the road’s slippery since it’s raining. He didn’t buy it haha. We got at the station a little after 8 and paid 400,000 VND (metered). Thankfully, we were able to book two way hard sleeper tickets for 435,000 VND each way for 9:21 pm that night.The pillowcase smells a bit so I had to wrap it with a shirt but the bed itself was fine. It was just uncomfortable since in our hurry we didn’t realize we were placed on Tang level 3. >.<

We arrived in Lao Cai station shortly after 8am the following day and what happened after still leaves a bad taste in my mouth. It was probably the most and only unpleasant experience we’ve had during our 12-day journey. Now I’ve read in a blog that the shuttle van ride to Sa Pa costs only 50,000 VND so imagine how shocked we were when the dispatcher told us it’s 300,000 VND per person! We told him NO. We’re paying only 50,000 Dong, no more, no less. We tried to ask other passengers inside the vans how much they’re paying but most of them is part of a tour group. By this time, there were 3-4 guys following us around. They keep on telling us that it’s the same amount the others were paying. So? They were obviously scammed, should we allow ourselves to be scammed too? Hell, no! We saw a bus across the road and tried to ask if its bound for Sa Pa. We suspected they understood but feigned indifference. One of them kept telling us 500,000 VND but we can’t understand if he meant for two or if its per person. We don’t dare climb up the bus until we’re sure. The dispatcher and his cronies were crowding around us again. Good Lord! We were getting so stressed out! Definitely not how I expected my first day in Sa Pa would be like. They were all definitely in  cahoots with one another and preying on unsuspecting tourists. There was a Caucasian couple and I tried to ask them how much they were told the fare was. The boyfriend suspected something was amiss and tried to talk to me but the bus dispatcher and the others in on the scam shooed them inside saying the bus is leaving. We gave up and walked away. We had to cool down somehow. We walked to a nearby eatery and had Pho. My first Pho after a year which must have tasted delicious if I wasn’t too upset over what happened. The local guys at the other table were friendly and even offered my friend a shot of rice wine which he politely declined since it was only 9am after all. When we were leaving they told us the fare to Lao Cai is indeed only 50,000 VND. We went back where the remaining vans were. The other passengers left already as well as the aggressive dispatcher. Thank God for that. We were ready to compromise with the other drivers and pay 100,000 VND. Lo and behold! When we asked again how much the ride was for, they said 50,000 VND. We realized it was because no tourist was around to hear it so they finally told us the right amount. We got in and waited for the next train. They signaled us not to tell the other passengers about this. We didn’t wanna create any trouble so we just pretended not to understand English and talked in our native tongue so that no one would ask us.

Travel time to Sa Pa must have lasted about an hour. Can’t really remember now but it was a very scenic drive. After shopping around for a hostel, an account of which is detailed here, we decided to stay at Mountain View Hotel. After checking in, we immediately set out to see the town. It was a sunny day with clear, blue skies and we noticed many Hmongs and other hill tribe’s local women follow tourists around offering crafts and souvenirs. Upon seeing that we’re not from there, they would also usually greet us in a clear and sing-songy voice “where you from?” We just usually smile politely and move along.

I really liked how compact the town is. We have not really prepared an  itinerary so we just walked around at a leisurely pace and took in the scenery, the lake and the colonial inspired houses at the base  of a mountain, the stone church, and of course, the food.

Living in a tropical country, I particularly enjoyed seeing the mist engulf the entire town as the night approaches and temperature drops at around 10°C. Good thing I was able to buy a decent down jacket from one of many shops selling TNF overruns.